Pick up two black hoodies in a shop and they can look identical on the hanger. Put them on and the difference is obvious within a minute: one hangs flat and clings, the other holds its own shape and sits away from your body. Nine times out of ten, that difference comes down to a single number on the label — the GSM.
What GSM actually means
GSM stands for grams per square metre. It is the weight of one square metre of the fabric before it is cut and sewn. The higher the number, the denser and heavier the cloth.
It is the most useful single measure of how a garment will feel and wear, and it is the one most high-street labels leave out. When a brand quotes it, it is usually because they are proud of it.
A rough guide to hoodie weights
- Under 280gsm — lightweight. Soft and easy to layer, but thin. Tends to lose shape, pill and cling after a few washes.
- 280–340gsm — midweight. Typical of many standard hoodies. Comfortable, but rarely holds a structured oversized silhouette.
- 340–380gsm — heavy. Noticeably denser. Holds a boxy or drop-shoulder shape and works year-round.
- 400gsm and above — heavyweight. Substantial enough to wear as a light outer layer through a British autumn. The fabric drapes rather than clings, whatever your build.
Why weight matters more for oversized fits
An oversized hoodie in thin fabric does not look oversized — it looks too big. The extra volume collapses, bunches at the waist and sticks to the body. Heavier cloth has the structure to hold the shape the pattern was designed for: wide at the chest, dropped at the shoulder, clean from collar to hem.
This is why the cut and the weight have to be chosen together. A boxy silhouette needs at least 340gsm to work properly. A true drop-shoulder oversized hoodie looks its best at 400gsm and above.
Heavier is not always better
Weight is a trade-off, not a ranking. A 430gsm hoodie is warm and structured, but it is not what you want for a mild spring evening or for layering under a jacket. For those, something in the 340–355gsm range with a brushed fleece interior gives you warmth without the bulk.
A sensible wardrobe usually has one of each: a heavyweight piece for colder months and statement wear, and a mid-heavy one for everyday layering.
Other things to check alongside GSM
- Fleece or loopback interior. Brushed fleece is warmer and softer; French terry loopback is more breathable.
- The hood. A double-layer lined hood holds its shape. A single layer tends to fall flat.
- Ribbing. Cuffs and hems should spring back when stretched. Loose ribbing is one of the first signs of a hoodie that will not last.
- Finish. Washed finishes — snow wash, sun fade, enzyme wash — soften the fabric from the first wear and give each piece slight natural variation.
How our range breaks down
Every BELVEDERE NOIRE hoodie states its weight on the product page, so you know exactly what you are buying.
- For maximum structure: the Essential Heavyweight Hoodie at 430gsm, the Camo-Splice Raglan Zip Hoodie at 410gsm, and the Heavyweight Raglan Zip Hoodie at 400gsm.
- For year-round wear: the Zip-Through Boxy Fleece Hoodie and Snow Wash Fleece Oversized Hoodie, both at 355gsm with a brushed interior.
- For something different: the Vintage Wash Sleeveless Hoodie at 370gsm, designed to layer over a long sleeve tee.
Browse the full hoodie collection, or read our FAQ for sizing guidance. All our hoodies are cut unisex — take your usual size for the intended oversized look, or size down for something closer to the body.
The short version
If you want an oversized hoodie that actually looks oversized, look for 340gsm or more. If you want one that works as outerwear and still looks right after a year of washing, look for 400gsm or more. And if a brand will not tell you the weight, it is usually worth asking why.